After all, it is the Jazz Fest
I didn’t go to the Fair Grounds today planning to see mostly jazz. But as usual, the best moments at Jazz Fest are unplanned.
On arriving at around 11:30 or so, I headed for the Jazz Tent and caught most of Lillian Boutté’s set. She is a wonderful jazz singer with great stage presence. Something I noticed about the Jazz Tent: the amplifiers were not all set at 11. Most of them seemed to be set at 9. You could hear the music fine, but your ears weren’t bleeding. Something else I noticed: the audience dug the music. I suppose that’s typical of a jazz audience.
After Lillian’s set, I headed over to the Economy Hall tent and caught the last part of the Treme Brass Band’s set. They’re a traditional New Orleans street-music band. This means their style is as traditional as New Orleans itself, and as up to date as the music currently bubbling up from the streets.
I then went to Congo Square, to listen to the Dirty Dozen Brass Band and to contemplate the day’s most difficult choice: remain at Congo Square for the Dirty Dozen’s entire set or head to the Gentilly Stage for Henry Butler. The Dirty Dozen did everything they could to make the choice even more difficult. They hit the stage playing their asses off and never let up for the 20 minutes or so that I was there.
As hard as it was to leave, I knew that I had to see Henry Butler. So after the Dirty Dozen’s second number, I tore myself away. It was the right choice. I’ve heard some great piano players at Jazz Fest, including Dr. John, Marcia Ball, and (most recently) Eddie Bo, Billy Joel, and Stevie Wonder. Outside of Jazz Fest, I’ve heard Fats Domino and Allen Toussaint live. But Henry Butler is special. The best way I can describe him is this: Years from now, when he’s passed on, those who survive him will talk about how they once heard Henry Butler play, the same way that folks today talk about how they once heard Professor Longhair play.
After Henry Butler, it was either Marcia Ball at Gentilly or John Mooney in the Blues Tent. The tie breaker was that I’ve seen Marcia many times, but had never seen John Mooney. So I decided to see him.
When I listen to John Mooney, I’m reminded of Son House. You can tell that he spent years absorbing the likes of Son House and Robert Johnson, to the point that they altered his DNA. Today, John Mooney does not imitate the old masters. He plays in his own style, but his style reminds you of the old masters. Anyway, John and his band, Bluesiana, played one hell of a set.
I decided to end the day in the same venue that I started: the Jazz Tent, where Irvin Mayfield and the New Orleans Jazz Orchestra were performing. Irvin Mayfield is probably the premier trumpet player in New Orleans. But for this set, he functioned mainly as the leader of a band full of virtuosos (though he did take a couple of solos). They put on a great show.
A few words about today’s eats: beignets and iced cafe au lait, crabmeat po boy, file gumbo, and barbecued turkey wing with white beans and cole slaw.
I hope that some folks outside New Orleans who’ve been reading these posts and who love music will consider spending their 2009 vacation at Jazz Fest. Imagine spending 10 days away from the ordinary grind, immersing yourself in great music and great food.


Good God, I haven't been to Jazz Fest since 1995. I was working on my perpetual home-improvement project over this past weekend, and working a fundraiser in Alexandria the weekend before. Oh, can I use this comment as my "fuck" post? Some of my wife's upstanding Mormon relatives read my blog, and I substitute "eff" for "fuck" there.
Posted by: Randy | May 05, 2008 at 07:41 AM
Randy, you've just got to block out the Jazz Fest weekends as vacation time. Last weekend in April, first weekend in May.
Posted by: Ray Ward | May 05, 2008 at 07:58 AM
At the start of her set, Lillian Boutee asked that the sound be turned down. (Pretty radical idea). In fact, she said that some people seem to think that loud music is good music. My gripe with that stage, as well as the other stages, is that the low frequencies (bass drum and lower bass notes)were way out of balance, and tended to drown out everything else. Are rappers doing the mix on the sound boards or what? Part of the problem was that my head was a little clogged up, but all the bass notes sounded like dull thuds, without pitch to me.
I don't think that Irvin Mayfield is one of the best trumpet players in the city by a long shot, but that's a very subjective personal opinion.
Posted by: Bill | May 07, 2008 at 11:26 AM
Bill: Thanks for commenting. I missed the beginning of Lillian Boutte's set, so I didn't hear her make that request.
I thought the sound in the Jazz Tent was balanced okay. Maybe that's because my hearing is going.
My opinion of Irvin Mayfield's musicianship is admittedly uneducated. But I've heard him with Los Hombres Calientes, and he knocked my socks off. I also heard him once on the WWL morning news, and he coaxed sounds out of his instrument that I've never heard anyone coax out of a trumpet.
I'm interested in hearing whoever you think is better than Irvin Mayfield. I might learn something. (One way I learn about musicians is by checking out people recommended by commenters.)
Posted by: Ray Ward | May 07, 2008 at 07:44 PM
The story goes that Son House actually gave lessons to John Mooney whilst they were both living in New York state.
Posted by: David T | May 08, 2008 at 02:33 AM
Ray,
Other trumpet players:
It's all subjective but outside of Wynton, who's not in NO, at least Terrance Blanchard. Also check out both Shamar Allen and Troy Andrews (Trombone Shorty) for some "new lions". Shamar did a knochout set on the Jazz & heritage stage, and I also heard him a week or so before with Leroy Jones and Paul Shanchez at dba. (Just the two trumpets and a guitar.)
And every time I hear Troy, he sounds better, and has great ideas. It was pretty interesting that he sat in with the Nevilles this year.
I also like Marlon Jordan (I thought he was great with Stephanie this year), plus Charlie Fradella with the Jazz Vipers. Charlie is a consumate artist who's not flashy and never wastes notes, but who plays flawless inventive lines that can stand on their own.
Just my 2 cents worth.
Posted by: Bill | May 13, 2008 at 11:34 AM