I didn’t go to the Fair Grounds today planning to see mostly jazz. But as usual, the best moments at Jazz Fest are unplanned.
On arriving at around 11:30 or so, I headed for the Jazz Tent and caught most of Lillian Boutté’s set. She is a wonderful jazz singer with great stage presence. Something I noticed about the Jazz Tent: the amplifiers were not all set at 11. Most of them seemed to be set at 9. You could hear the music fine, but your ears weren’t bleeding. Something else I noticed: the audience dug the music. I suppose that’s typical of a jazz audience.
After Lillian’s set, I headed over to the Economy Hall tent and caught the last part of the Treme Brass Band’s set. They’re a traditional New Orleans street-music band. This means their style is as traditional as New Orleans itself, and as up to date as the music currently bubbling up from the streets.
I then went to Congo Square, to listen to the Dirty Dozen Brass Band and to contemplate the day’s most difficult choice: remain at Congo Square for the Dirty Dozen’s entire set or head to the Gentilly Stage for Henry Butler. The Dirty Dozen did everything they could to make the choice even more difficult. They hit the stage playing their asses off and never let up for the 20 minutes or so that I was there.
As hard as it was to leave, I knew that I had to see Henry Butler. So after the Dirty Dozen’s second number, I tore myself away. It was the right choice. I’ve heard some great piano players at Jazz Fest, including Dr. John, Marcia Ball, and (most recently) Eddie Bo, Billy Joel, and Stevie Wonder. Outside of Jazz Fest, I’ve heard Fats Domino and Allen Toussaint live. But Henry Butler is special. The best way I can describe him is this: Years from now, when he’s passed on, those who survive him will talk about how they once heard Henry Butler play, the same way that folks today talk about how they once heard Professor Longhair play.
After Henry Butler, it was either Marcia Ball at Gentilly or John Mooney in the Blues Tent. The tie breaker was that I’ve seen Marcia many times, but had never seen John Mooney. So I decided to see him.
When I listen to John Mooney, I’m reminded of Son House. You can tell that he spent years absorbing the likes of Son House and Robert Johnson, to the point that they altered his DNA. Today, John Mooney does not imitate the old masters. He plays in his own style, but his style reminds you of the old masters. Anyway, John and his band, Bluesiana, played one hell of a set.
I decided to end the day in the same venue that I started: the Jazz Tent, where Irvin Mayfield and the New Orleans Jazz Orchestra were performing. Irvin Mayfield is probably the premier trumpet player in New Orleans. But for this set, he functioned mainly as the leader of a band full of virtuosos (though he did take a couple of solos). They put on a great show.
A few words about today’s eats: beignets and iced cafe au lait, crabmeat po boy, file gumbo, and barbecued turkey wing with white beans and cole slaw.
I hope that some folks outside New Orleans who’ve been reading these posts and who love music will consider spending their 2009 vacation at Jazz Fest. Imagine spending 10 days away from the ordinary grind, immersing yourself in great music and great food.
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